Koh Shalom

Throughout my time in Thailand -- and all over this region -- I've encountered all sorts of Euros, Ausies, Far East Asians, and even the errant American. For the most part, the languages spoken in the places I've visited have been the native tongue (Hindi, Lao, Thai, Khmer, or Vietnamese) and, occasionally, English. Imagine my surprise as I'm walking down the road in Haad Rinn: Sign in English, sign in Thai, sign in English, Thai, English, Thai, Hebrew, Thai, Hebrew, English, Hebrew, Hebrew, Thai, Hebrew.

What the Golda Meier is going on?

Turns out, the Thai islands are THE post-military retreat of young Israelis. Who knew? Interestingly enough, on that night in Haad Rinn, my boys threw game at Swiss, Dutch, English, and even Chilean girls and got at least pleasant convo. The Israeli girls, interestingly enough, did not give them the time of day.

The Israeli boys, on the other hand, seemed a bit more friendly. I left Hat Thien (our beach) for Bangkok yesterday at 4pm. After bidding a sad farewell to Vic, Graham, Adam, Charles, and Mustafa, I hopped into a water taxi to the dock in Haad Rinn where I could catch the ferry to Koh Samui (where the airport is located). After purchasing my ferry ticket, I posted up in the shade near a fellow white dude. We started chatting and he told me that he was Israeli. He was super nice -- particularly when I started asking too many questions about his upcoming job as a military scientist and he politely informed me that he wasn't supposed to talk about it -- and explained the heavy Israeli presence in the islands. Israel, as you probably know, has compulsory military service for all of its citizens. There are some other options -- for instance my scientist friend who won't have to serve as a soldier due to his physics degree -- but everyone goes to bootcamp. When finished, they bust out to Thailand to get away from it all. (FYI: after bootcamp these kids look GOOD.)

I toyed with asking him about Lebanon and whatnot, but decided that it wasn't appropriate Samui ferry conversation. Instead he showed me his pictures and listened to me drone on and on about my trip. All in all, much better than sitting on the boat with my iPod and the latest Economist. I thought my luck had run out when he said he wasn't leaving Samui until the morning (and, thus, wouldn't want to hang out with me at the airport) when I felt a tap on my shoulder and heard a mildly-accented, "Excuse me."

And that's when I met Floor (rhymes with "sure" not "door") and Marelde. They had overheard me mention that I was leaving on the last flight from Samui, same as them, and wanted to double check the time it was leaving. Before you know it, we're at the airport restaurant together laughing over smoothies and sharing stories. We spoke at length about the Israeli presence at Pha Ngan because Floor was lucky enough to bag one. They met at the Half-Moon Party (apparently in the middle of the island, deep in the jungle) and hit it off. I'm sure it helped that Floor's a hottie and -- based on pictures she showed me -- the boy was RAZOR FINE. Unfortunately, they were staying at the opposite end of the island and had to bid each other goodbye after an entire night of kissing and conversation (aww, a boy who didn't try to get her into bed right away?!).

And here's where the story gets romantic. A bit love-sick, Floor convinced Marelde (happily boyfriended) to move to Haad Rinn for the rest of their stay. They spent the first day walking around town hoping to catch a glimpse of Floor's boy, but weren't terribly successful. Toward the end of the day, Floor's frustration busted through and, according to her, she said out loud, "Why can't he just be right here right now!?"

Yup, you guessed it.

Marelde gasped at that very moment because she noticed him standing about ten feet behind Floor. Sigh. The romance continued until the girls left yesterday.

So what have we learned?

1) Israelis love Thai beaches.
2) Even if the only language you speak and read is Hebrew, you'll have no problems in Koh Pha-Ngan.
3) Israeli girls will not give American boys the time of the day. (I wonder if Mustafa introduced himself as Moose or Mustafa...because the latter might have something to do with it.)
4) Israeli boys are lovely (and often mad hot).
5) Israelis will not reveal scientific military secrets to Americans on ferry boats, no matter how shockingly charismatic the American.